By Kai Ioh | November 2025
During my recent trip to Maui for REALM ELEVATE, I had a surprisingly unique experience: learning about coconuts.
Yes, coconuts!
You’d think that after nearly 25 years of living in Hawaii, I’d be an expert on them. I see them every day. They grow in many backyards. From a real estate angle, they’re often seen as a liability. No one wants a lawsuit from a falling nut, so we usually advise against planting them too close to a house.
Sure, I’ve sipped coconut water straight from the nut. I’ve tasted young coconut meat once or twice. But I don’t recall ever enjoying local coconuts in desserts or seeing fresh, local coconut milk used in everyday cooking.
Until now.
My First Taste of Coconut Wonder
When I first moved to the Big Island, I stumbled upon a pop-up farmer’s market near Hilo. One vendor had something that looked like squid sashimi—semi-translucent, jelly-like slices. Curious, I gave it a try.
To my surprise, it was coconut, but nothing like the coconut I knew. The flavor was subtle, mildly sweet, and gentle. I thought I’d run into it again someday. But that was the first and last time.
Or so I thought.
Fast forward to this year’s REALM ELEVATE in Maui, where I had the pleasure of meeting Ryan Burden, a true coconut master. He turned everything I thought I knew about coconuts upside down.
A Living Encyclopedia of Coconuts
Ryan and his wife run a coconut farm in Haiku, Maui. Their passion is contagious. He explained that coconut palms fruit year-round, in rhythm with the moon. The nuts grow in clusters, with the youngest at the top and the oldest near the base. Over 14 months, they move through seven distinct stages of maturity, each with its own texture and use:
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Poppers
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Jellymeat
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Spoonmeat
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Rubbermeat
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Shakers
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Brown Coconuts
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Sprouters
And here’s something beautiful. The Hawaiian name for the coconut palm is Kumu Nui, meaning “Good Source.” Fitting, for a plant that offers food, water, oil, shelter, and fiber.
What struck me most? Many locals have never tasted fresh coconut milk or experienced coconut as a real food source. Intimidation and lack of access seem to be the main reasons. We’re surrounded by these trees, yet often disconnected from their potential.
A Three-Course Coconut Revelation
Ryan hosted a tasting that opened our eyes and palates:
1. Poppers (6 moons old):
He crafted a coconut cocktail that felt like nature’s Gatorade. The water inside has the same electrolyte balance as human plasma. Light, slightly sweet, and incredibly hydrating.
2. Jellymeat Shooters:
Served in an oyster shell, this jelly-like coconut flesh resembled raw oysters. Vegan, delicate, and surprisingly oceanic. A completely new taste but awesome!
3. Coconut Noodles:
Cooked in a pan, the thicker coconut meat transformed into something close to Japanese udon. Springy, chewy, and full of flavor. I wouldn’t have guessed it was coconut at all. I did not know coconut could be eaten this way!! And tasted great too!
You can see all three dishes in my short video. I wish you could taste them, too.
A Wish for the Big Island
Unfortunately, we don’t have a farm like Ryan’s on the Big Island. At least not yet. While coconuts are common at local markets, they’re often more for show than for sustenance. I wish we had a local source for true coconut milk, fresh juice, and culinary-grade coconut meat.
If you’re even a little curious about coconuts beyond the canned version, take a look at Ryan’s work:
👉 www.coconutinformation.com/about
This isn’t just a food story. It’s about reconnection — to land, to tradition, and to the incredible gifts growing right above our heads.
I may just start recommending coconut trees to clients after all.
